David the Dog Trainer

Throw Food at the Problem?

2012-01-16T19:26:00.000-08:00

Are American trainer and dog owners over-reliant on food for teaching their dogs and modifying behavior?

My short answer: Yes.

I will admit being a part of the problem, and I even went as far as to try and take clicker training mainstream.

I think there is a BIG, BIG difference between the average pet (dog) owning public and dog enthusiasts. Everyday dog owners DON'T CARE about learning theory and clicker training. Everyday dog owners don't even want to train their dogs for the most part. That is why so many of them search for the dog trainer who wields the magical training wand and promises quick fixes in one or two sessions.

Dog trainers who are dealing with everyday dog owners MUST design simple training programs which do not rely on clickers for basic training. Clickers can be used, IMO, if the client want to learn how to use them, but more time should be focused on teaching the client how to train with food, how to build a relationship with their pet, and how to manage the pet/environment to prevent rehearsal of problem behavior.

Emotional Connection

2012-01-15T15:29:00.000-08:00

I am beginning to emphasize emotional cueing into my training and behavior modification plans, partly inspired by John Rogerson and Dr. Ian Dunbar.

If you are able to teach your dog to be more tuned into your moods, you will be more able to communicate when to your dog your approval and disapproval.

Check out a video here.

Test Post!

2012-01-15T15:22:00.000-08:00

I am moving to an new account. This is a test!

If you like it, feed it!

2011-01-11T00:58:00.000-08:00

I have said something like this before, but I want to make sure that I continue to nail this (these) home:

Rewarded Behaviors Increase in Frequency.
Rewards Drive Behavior.
Rewards are Whatever Your Dog Loves.
Food is a Reward.
Play is a Reward.
Access to that Thing is a Reward.

I want to encourage you to look for rewardable behavior in your pet, then reward it! As Terry Ryan would say, "Catch him in the act of doing something good."

Praise It, Mark It (clicker or "Yes!"), Reward It.

The easiest formula (IMO) to use is this:

See It, Click It, Feed It. (clicker required). Here is a great video to demonstrate!

I want you to use the "If I like it, I am going to feed it" formula in your daily life with your dog and see how things work out!

Here are a few examples of putting the formula to work:

Walking with your dog, and the dog is close enough to touch - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Your dog looks in your eyes - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Your dog looks up to you when you are walking - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Your dog looks at another person or dog - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Your dog sits without being asked before you exit the house.
Walking on a 6 foot leash, but the leash is loose - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Dog runs up to you to greet but keeps four on the floor - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.
Dog goes to the bathroom in the "right" place - Click/Feed or "Yes"/Feed.

Using Food Puzzle Toys

2011-01-09T14:15:00.000-08:00

Why use food puzzle toys, you ask?

Because it makes dogs work for their food.

"My dog empties his Kong in 1 minute!" Well, it is time for a more sophisticated stuffing technique, or a more difficult stuffable toy!

First: Dogs, before they were bred to do WORK and bred to be PETS, were scavengers. Much of their life/energy was spent engaging in food acquisition behaviors. Today, we just toss down a bowl, in a "here you are, sir" kind of manner. I suggest that all dogs should work for their meals. It is better for their minds.

Second: Let's look at your options!

The Free Option: Scatter the kibble or food in the yard for them to find. Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MRjgU_8ai8

The old standby, the Kong: http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html

Video on puzzle toys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJrIBaM2-WY

Now, when you are using a Kong or any stuffable and non-consumable object, it is important to train the dog to use the toy. I hear clients tell me that they will stuff the toy but that the dog does not empty it, and usually it is because the stuffing was too challenging for the dog's current skill level.

Stuffable object training outline: 1. Loosely stuff with kibble...dog learns to empty. 2. Add kibble and soft foods...dog learns to empty and it takes longer to empty. 3. Pack the object with kibble and soft food, really squishing stuff together...this is taking more time for pup, but the objects are still being completely emptied. 4. Stuff, add a bit of water, freeze.

Other puzzle toys to consider:

Tug a Jug (loud, but fun): http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/behavior/busybuddy/tugajug/description

Squirrel Dude: http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs/products/behavior/busybuddy/squirreldude/description

Canine Genius: http://www.caninegenius.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=cg100&Category_Code=INT

Nina Ottosson Interactive Puzzles: http://www.interactivedoggames.com/

A challenged dog is a happy dog!

Kibble Training

2010-12-08T21:30:00.000-08:00

Does your dog eat kibble?

If so, will he work for his kibble or does he just eat it out of his bowl when it is provided?

I have met many dog owners who feed their dogs twice per day, and I usually end up encouraging them to use their dog's daily ration for training (here is a dog training with kibble). Or, at least, feed their dog from a puzzle toy (see here for more).

Using kibble as a lure and as a reinforcer is possible. If your dog is a picky eater, you may need to begin your training efforts with something more exotic, but you will find, if you train hard, that soon enough your dog will gladly work for food he used to scoff at.

Building a high food dog in dogs can be tough (here is what a high food drive looks like), but it is possible with practice. As mentioned above, your food based training efforts may have to start with high value rewards. As you work with your dog, occasionally offer less valued food rewards. Feed some meals (kibble) by hand. Feed from puzzle toys...Within a few months, the food drive should be strong, and you should be able to use kibble in your training.

Using kibble to train is a great way to work with dogs who have a weight problem.

We welcome your questions and comments!

Different Strokes for Different Folks

2010-12-08T15:21:00.000-08:00

"How do you want to train your dog today?"

A little catchphrase I like to use. It is important to know about your options when you are preparing to train your dog or embarking on a behavior modification program. Most people choose to use food to train their dogs to perform basic behaviors, and for most dogs, this method works extremely well.

For dogs with more troublesome issues, like aggressive or excessively unruly behavior when on leash, using a more punitive approach is sometimes preferred. Using punishment with a training collar is not always a good option, but for some dogs it works well, and for some clients, it is the best alternative.

Pet owners in America are inundated with dog information - TV, books, friends, trainers, the internet - some of which can be very contradictory. I think it is important to provide people with as much information up front and help them make an informed decision - a decision that makes sense from them, their lifestyle, and their goals.

I recently took a case, Lacey the Mastiff, video here, and while we were making pretty good progress, the client wanted to try an alternative approach, an approach I supported. We are using a prong collar to punish leash pulling and lunging, especially in the presence of neighborhood dogs, and cats, while continue to use food to reinforce other behaviors which help the client maintain control and improve overall responses. The client is more comfortable using the prong collar, feels more in control, and is seeing results.

As we move towards our final session, session 3, I will continue to blog on the topic. Is is my hope, that by the end of our final session, the client will have total control and comfort handling the dog without a prong collar.

Thank you for reading and we encourage your feedback.

On the Use of Positive Punishment in Dog Training

2010-12-06T17:37:00.000-08:00

Punishment. What does it mean? In the world of dog training, it means "make behavior decrease."

I am writing this article because I recently coached a client to effectively use a prong collar. As a graduate of the SPCA CTC program and a champion of Positive Reinforcement (R+) techniques, it may come as a shock that I would suggest Positive Punishment (P+), but since I have recommend it, I think the topic should be explored more in depth. The client in question and I have one more session together, and it is my hope that within a few months, the prong collar will no longer be necessary to punish unwanted behavior.

We want our dogs to do things we find things annoying less often. Jumping up, lunging, barking, fighting, digging, urinating in the wrong place...The list goes on and on.

When dog people argue about the use of punishment in dog training, they are usually arguing about Positive Punishment (P+). The concept itself is confusing because the word "positive" usually leads people to think "good." In this case, "positive" means added (think, "+"). We add something to a behavior (consequence), usually something painful (aversive), which decreases the chance that the behavior will occur again in the same context. For more on P+ and operant conditioning, click here.

Punishment often works. And Positive Punishment often gets good (and often immediate) results when used correctly and used in concert with Positive Reinforcement. In my practice, I almost always start with a Positive Reinforcement (R+) program before using Positive Punishment, and, as aversives can harm dogs, I encourage everyone to do their research and speak with a dog trainer you trust before you use any aversive techniques.

Now, don't get me wrong, this is not an argument advocating more Punishment when communicating with dogs, it is, however, a effort at clarification and a plea to those in the world of dogs to be clear about how we can influence behavior in the future.

To be continued...

Myth Busting!

2010-07-12T23:50:00.000-07:00

I am looking for DOG MYTHS to debunk on video! Please help me by leaving a comment here on the blog or by visiting my Facebook Page HERE!

For example:

My dog thinks he is Alpha, he is always exiting the door first, pulling on the leash, walking ahead, etc.

If you want to be the Alpha in your house, never let your dog eat first.

Lily Retrieve, Pick Up and Grasp

2010-03-10T17:45:00.001-08:00

Lily continues to work on the RETRIEVE behavior.

Crate Training Rocks!

2010-02-13T19:07:00.000-08:00

What does it mean to be crate trained?

To me, crate training does not mean that the dog simply sleeps there at night.

To me, crate training means that your dog has been taught that the crate is a wonderful place to relax, and that you are able to send him there on a cue ("Fido, Kennel Up!") at any time.

Why do it???

A dog who loves his crate will choose his crate over your couch. Especially if you put come comfy bedding down in the bottom.
A dog who loves his crate can be trained to "Go to your crate!" whenever guest come to the door, which can preempt jumping up, and pave a path for mannerly greetings.
A dog who loves his crate will have less difficulty settling down in his crate for alone time.
A dog who loves his crate is easier to travel with.
A dog who loves his crate will have a safe and comfy place to call home when you are away. It will keep him out of trouble, and encourage resting, especially if you have exercised him.
A dog who has been crate trained will have the opportunity to develop appropriate chewing habits.
A dog who loves his crate has a place to be when you are eating meals (instead of under your feet).
A crate trained dog will go into his crate when asked, and will remain there until released, even with the door ajar.

Here is a video on targeting which might help you begin a crate training protocol.

Communicate with Ease

2010-02-08T23:03:00.000-08:00

This post is dedicated to my new dog friend, Abby.

First, what does healthy and easy communication LOOK like? Here is a video of Cooper and I working together. Cooper is one of my best friends - dog or human - and I think we have a pretty good understanding of each other's language.

The best ways, in my opinion, to communicate with your dog are:

Learn to listen to your dog. Do you know what your dog is telling you with her body language and other signals, vocal and otherwise? There are a lot of great resources out there which can help, and I will link you to a good one here: Turid Rugaas/Image Gallery.
Train your dog with positive reinforcement techniques. Often called, reward training, this technique can transform your dog from a self-centered, unfocused, and hyperactive pup into a calm, obedient, and happy playmate. The most common form of positive reinforcement training in dogs is lure-reward training. Here is some great info on the topic from the weblog of Dr. Ian Dunbar's (the "father of modern dog training") Dog Star Daily.
Use a clicker to train your dog. Clickers are used for shaping behaviors. Shaping is a branch of reinforcement training where small pieces of behavior are rewarded on the way to the terminal behavior (the goal). Clickers make a clicking sound. The sound acts as a marker signal and the sound is always paired with the delivery of food. The click tells the dog, "That's It! That thing you just did earned you a reward!" I find clicker training absolutely fabulous, and with shaping games, you can teach your dog the value of being creative. For the definitive resource on all things clicker, go here.
Load your praise by consistently using words like, "good boy," before you deliver the food or sound your clicker. With practice, your dog will learn that they are on the right track, and training sessions become much smoother for you and your dog.
Be consistent! Really. I know it is hard. If you don't want jumping up or crotch nuzzling, never allow it! Preempt it by asking for an alternate behavior instead.
Play! Use games and general goofiness to have a good time with your pal! Then, use the games (great ones are fetch and tug) in your training!

Reward training tells the dog what to do, and I encourage you to focus on telling your dog how to succeed. You should closely manage your dog's environment, especially in early training, to keep him from making mistakes and learning bad habits. Set your dog up for success by teaching him that you control access to many, if not all of the best things in his life, and that if he wants access to those things, he must learn to ask for them politely. All roads lead though you!

Of course, there are going to be times when you want to tell your dog NO. But it is so, so important to focus on telling the dog what you want him to do instead of what you do not like him doing. Here is a link to another great resource and blogger.

Another thing you are going to want to ask yourself is, "what is it about what my dog is doing that really bothers me?" Are you bothered that the dog is walking ahead of you or is it really bothering you that he does not seem to care that you are even out on the walk with him?

AND, "Is there something I can train my dog to do which will make what I don't want him to do close to impossible?" Phew! What a mouthful! The easiest example of this being - training your dog to SIT when she is motivated to jump up.

Another thing I find very helpful in training, is using rewards that are not food. The best rewards that are not food are, in my opinion, access to desired THINGS, and interactive games.

Here is an example of what "access to desired things" looks like. Remember, training requires repetition.

It takes a lot more than love to have a beautiful relationship with your dog. Dogs were bred to work, and if you work with your dog - training, exercise, games, breed specific activities, hiking, traveling, interacting - your bond will be strong. Consistent, gentle, and direct communication will get great results.

Remember, have fun when you train, listen to your dog, and always travel with a biscuit in your pocket!

"Train with Joy!"

~David the Dog Trainer

Help! My Dog Pulls on the Leash!

2010-01-08T15:22:00.001-08:00

I work with dogs and their people. Whenever I see people walking with their dog, I take note of what I see. With no scientific data, I can comfortably say that when I watch people walking with their dogs, 8 out of 10 times the dog will be walking ahead, and often pulling on the leash. Thus, the "problem" is rather common. For some clients (human), walking ahead by the dog is highly undesired. For others, it is not a problem at all.

How do you feel about your dog walking ahead of you when you are on leashed walks?

"Help! My dog pulls on the leash!" Oh, how often have I heard this?

The first thing I like to say about this "problem" is, take of the leash. No leash = no pulling!

I realize it is an unsafe and unrealistic solution, but I want you to realize that we have created a problem by attaching our dogs to tethers and creating restrictions on their freedoms.

Let's talk first about WHY dogs pull on leash and clear up any confusion.

Dogs do not pull on leash to establish dominance over you. Nor do they walk through doorways because they want to maintain or establish or are jockeying for a higher position in the pack. Can I prove it? No. But, I am going to base my opinion on what most people call common sense. We all know now that domestic dogs are not pack animals. Or are they? There are conflicting reports. Here is a link to a blog by Jean Donaldson on the topic. Here is another site, Nonlinear Dogs, which I know you will love.

Dogs do pull on leash because they are wearing a leash, are attached to you, and are moving faster than you are. Maybe you can teach them to slow down their pace. Here is a little video on the topic by yours truly.

Dogs will also pull on the leash when they are moving away from you to access something - another person, dog, or smell, etc.

Dogs will also pull on the leash if they get spooked and are attempting to create distance between themselves and the scary stimulus. You may need a to seek help if your dog is especially phobic.

Dogs will pull on the leash when lunging and barking. You may need to seek help if your dog is excessively unruly.

For everyday pulling, we can surmise, that if, perhaps, you have a pooch that does not get many opportunities to access the world, then it is very natural that she is highly ingrigued by her environment out of doors. I just spent time with one of my favorite dogs, Sugar, who is undersocialized, fearful, and exercise deprived. She pulls on the leash because she has not been trained, and she does not spend nearly enough time outside getting used to her surroundings (habituating).

If you don't like pulling on the leash, for whatever reason, you must figure out how to communicate effectively with your dog so she understands what you want and why she should comply.

Of course, there are many people who don't mind that their dog pulls on leash or walks ahead during walks. And, in my opinion, for many people and their dogs, walking ahead during walks is not really a "problem."

What I hear underneath the complaint, "my dog pulls on leash, " is, "I don't have any control of my dog" or "My dog's behavior scares me - he barks and lunges at things."

Now, getting more control is important. Very important. A successful reward training program is a great way to teach your dog essential manners for living in a world full of "distractions." Also, you want to make sure that you are able to manage your dog's behavior when you cannot train. Manage = prevent rehearsal - practice makes better! You cannot allow pooch to get better at "misbehaviors." If you don't like it when your dog pulls on leash, then you should no longer follow behind your dog as he pulls. If your dog pulls on the leash and then is able to access something he desires, then from a learning perspective, your dog has just been rewarded for pulling. And we all know that rewarded behaviors increase in frequency, don't we?

Now, let's explore routine and relationship:

Routine:

Dogs are very sensitive to routine. They quickly master the order of events. They "know" when breakfast is and they "know" that when you pick up the leash, you are soon going to take pooch with you out the door. It is important to recognize this as you develop a plan to reduce leash pulling. If your daily routine includes neighborhood strolls, you should make sure that you explore different routes to A) Keep pooch exposed to new stimuli, B) Train in new environments (helps dogs generalize), and C) to Attempt to keep pooch from anticipating where he is going, which can contribute to leash pulling (dog thinks, "I know where I am going, I might as well lead").

Relationship:

One thing I always ask a dog I am walking with is, where are you going? I am often wondering where the dog is heading, and why I am not seemingly invited. Especially true during a first walk with a new friend, dogs are often ready to go, go, go, and seem quite unconcerned about whether or not they leave me behind. This independent streak is a little less obvious in owned dogs, and one thing that will help your dog pull less is A) to Incorporate reward training into your walks, B) Disallow leash pulling completely, C) Take Breaks and spend time together not walking, and D) Communicate (consistently and humanely) that completely ignoring you is unacceptable.

Here are a few specific tips on how to get better behavior (manners) from your dog during leashed walks:

Teach your dog to speed up and slow down.
Work on SIT on each side of your body (many dogs master sit in front position only).
Teach your dog to SIT when you stop and SIT stay at every corner (for the urban dogs).
Take different walking routes.
Reward the dog when she is close enough to touch.
Train a rock solid "get back" and "leave it."
Teach your dog that they cannot greet unless they are given permission (cued) by their handler.
Teach your dogs that there are limited opportunities to sniff and eliminate. Again, put the opportunities on cue - so the dog learns: no cue = no break.
Teach your dog that when it is time to move on from an engagement, they must comply.
Never let your dog walk ahead unless given permission. This is the hardest exercise to master, but it is possible with consistency, and clear communication.

Finally, please do not insult your dog's intelligence by attaching a retractible lead to his prong collar. Retractible leads encourage pulling (the dog pulls, then gets to keep moving forward), while prong collars (punishment devices) are typically used to discourage pulling.

Thank you for reading, and please comment below. We love your feedback.

Holy SIT!

2010-01-07T19:55:00.000-08:00

Ah, "sit." How simple it is. A basic command. Something that dogs, people, and other animals do even without being instructed. But, oh how important it is for dogs to master - In this trainer's humble opinion.

Why is SIT so important?

For the dog that jumps - fixes jumping!
For the dog that lunges - no more lunging!
For the dog that won't listen - teach sit with attention!

But, wait. A quick word to you hard working pet owners. If you think your dog really KNOWS what "sit" means, then why doesn't he do it each and every time you ask? I know what, "honey, come in the kitchen and help me with this" means when my wife says it, but sometimes she has to repeat her commands, too.

Here is what I really want you to take home with you:

Dogs do not generalize well. This means, just because Peaches has a nice response to your command, SIT, when you say it in the kitchen when you are cooking rack of lamb, it does not mean that you will get the same behavior when you ask her in a new circumstance or environment. Here is a link to a blog that discusses generalization further.
You might have a competing motivation problem. Commonly called "distractions," (oh, if I could tell you just how often people tell me that their dog does not listen because he is just soooooo DISTRACTED...). In my above example where my wife was calling me to the kitchen, let's just say that I was in the next room, the "man cave," watching the Super Bowl. Honey says, "Come into the kitchen..." and I say, "Uh, just a minute, dear." Or perhaps I don't respond at all. Now, where is the distraction? From MY point of view, my wife is the distraction. Especially if she comes into the room and stands in front of the plasma TV. I want to go in and help my wife, but I also want to keep watching the boob tube (heh heh). So, we have competing motivation - I want to do both things, but since I cannot do two things at once in this case, one thing wins over the other, at least temporarily.
Maybe your gosh darn dog is just undertrained! Oh no, I said it! Yes, I did. Train your dog, people. You cannot blame the DISTRACTIONS forever. And please, please don't tell me that your dog is stubborn, dominant, or showing off to get your attention.
Another thing: you are boring. Yep, I said that, too.
Oh, and your dog has a high reinforcement history when he blows of your instructions. You say, Rover, SIT, he does not sit, you don't enforce, and then Rover gallops over and greets (rudely) the friendly stranger who tells you while smiling, "Oh, I don't mind if he jumps! He is just a puppy, right?" Er, no. He is 6 months old now. That special puppy license has been revoked!

So, what is a poor dog owner to do? :(

Well, start training with rewards, for one thing. Food, play, games, ball, toys, rubs, affection, walks, access to desired spots, etc.

Train everyday! Train where and when it counts - in the park where "distractions" are high. Train when he is hungry so you can compete! Bring along a few really tasty morsels so he knows you have valuable trade! Motivate your dog! Charm him! Get excited, people!

Okay.

So, one final thing I will say. If your dog is stressed, he will have trouble complying. Make sure you can read your dog. Do you know or can you interpret when he is stressed or too aroused to focus? Move away from the stressors, and work there (desensitize! work under-threshold). Proceed slowly back to spots where you used to have trouble.

Have fun when you train, and show your dog that you are a fun (and funny) companion and teacher.

Remember, punishment training is not fun for the dog, even if it occasionally gets results.

Games will unlock your dog's spirit! Now, go get training. No SIT, Sherlock!

PACK LEADER dog training

2010-01-06T08:18:00.000-08:00

I am going to explore the popular notion of "leadership" or "pack leader" training. I am not an expert on this topic, but I know enough to be useful in the debate, and can, hopefully, help you find the best resources to help you understand how to have the best relationship with your dog.

Proponents of this kind of "training" seem to advocate that the best way to have a well behaved dog and the best way to have a healthy relationship with your dog is to BE THE ALPHA.

Pack leader training seems to be rooted in dominance theory. Dominance theory is a misunderstood and controversial topic, especially when it comes to its application in the dog training world. There is a ton of writing on the topic. Here is a book by Dr. James O'Heare that you might want to look into on the subject. I have read him before, and have appreciated his work.

What dominance theory seems to imply is that within a social group there exists a hierarchy in relation to resources. The most dominant member of the group, by definition, gets first pick of the resources.

My understanding of why organisms would adopt a hierarchical structure is to reduce conflict amongst the group. If I am not mistaken, the idea of linear dominance actually comes from the study of chickens who seem to establish a pecking order. Here is some info on chickens from someone who, I am sure, knows more about the topic than I.

One reason so many people seem attracted to the idea of pack leader training is that it is mistakenly assumed that wild wolves live by a similar practice, and since wolves are ancestral dogs, then it makes sense that we should do as the wolves do. There is a ton of new research on the topic, and I am going to provide you with a few links below:

I also have come to understand that there are different theories about what exactly dominance theory is exactly.

We have:

contextual dominance theory - A has dominance (first choice of resource) over B in relation to the couch but dominance in relation to the pet owner.
alpha type-ology - Dogs are either Alpha types, Beta types, or status seekers (always looking to achieve a higher status through conflict).
linear dominance theory - There is a clear top dog at all times who gets first choice off all the resources.
Etc.

Here is where pack leader training gets problematic for dogs and their people:

Maintaining Alpha status often requires confrontation, physical punishment, intimidation, or force.
Pack leader training seems to be masking plain old positive punishment training. It usually comes with a lot of collar corrections and physical punishment. If people are going to advocate "pack leader training," and are getting their desired results through the application of punishment, I think it would be more helpful to call it what it really is, and look at learning theory as the cause of the behavior change.
If "pack leader training" is only a fancy way of labeling punishment training, then the consumer should know punishment's potential side effects and just how tricky it is to give timely and consistent "corrections." Here is an article on the subject - too many ads on the page, but sound advice, IMO.

Here is Wikipedia's definition of social dominance theory.

Here is the ASVAB position on the use of dominance theory in the behavior modification of animals.

Here are some words on training from the Humane Society of the United States.

This blog is by no means an exhaustive examination. I hope it promotes discussion and commentary.

As always, thanks for reading, and I encourage your comments.

Choosing the RIGHT Trainer...for YOU!

2010-01-05T21:21:00.001-08:00

First off - It might not be me. Why? Well, maybe you and I won't get along. Maybe you want a woman as your trainer. Perhaps you want someone more seasoned...etc.

Yes, I am a dog trainer. And a coach. And a behavior consultant. Yadda, yadda, yadda.

What I want you to learn from reading this blog is how to make an informed decision about your next trainer.

Here are things you should know about dogs and training:

The history of modern dog training can be researched here.
There are a lot of trainers who will talk about rewards, corrections, pack structure, becoming a leader, maintaining Alpha status, the importance of exercise, diet, breed predispositions, and so on. Make sure you know what your potential trainer is talking about and do some research to find out what style of training suits your needs.
You will need to find a person or school you can trust, who is convenient to access, and whose methods are easy, efficient, and fun for you AND the dog. If the training is not fun, easy, and effective, you probably won't do it.
Dogs are individuals - each will respond differently to different kinds of training. In my opinion, "soft" dogs or dogs who are phobic (highly fearful) should not be trained punitively. Neither should puppies be exposed to harsh treatment, pain, or intimidation, as they are particularly sensitive and helping to provide them positive early impressions will be your responsibility.
Research positive reinforcement training or reward training.
Research punishment or correction training.
Talk to your trainer about how they are going to teach the dog to do something more, and how they will teach the dog to do other things less.
Here are a few words from the Humane Society of the United States on training.
The right trainer will be able to communicate how how dog will be trained, how long the training will take, and why the methods work.
Dog training is an unregulated field. You need not have any certification, special permit, or license to train dogs. Therefore, it is important to find a trainer whose work you can trust. Perhaps you can talk to former clients, attend a class, or watch the trainer work with your dog - maybe the trainer even has some videos you can watch.
You should learn a bit about clicker training, and shaping, and if you are going to work with a trainer who uses clickers, the trainer should be able to articulate when, why, and how to use the device.

Finding a good trainer in your area can be difficult, especially if you live outside of the city. There are quite a few organizations that might be able to point you in a helpful direction.

Here are a few member oganizations to explore:

Thanks for reading, and, as always, comments are welcome!

"Life Rewards"

2009-12-24T20:15:00.001-08:00

I do not know if the term LIFE REWARDS was coined by Dr. Ian Dunbar, but I first heard it from his mouth.

What are LIFE REWARDS, you might ask.

Well, let me tell you:

In early reinforcement or reward training you will likely use food as your lure and reward. If you are shaping you won't be luring, but you will be using food as your reward. Once you have a behavior on a verbal cue or command, you can request the behavior (like, SIT) and reward it with a life reward.

Here are some possible life rewards:

A belly rub.
A dog walk.
A jog.
A lift up and hug (some dogs like this, not all).
An ear scratch.
A massage.
The opening of a door to access the world.
The opening of the door to access in indoors.
Attaching the leash (signals a walk).
A game of chase.
A game of fetch.
Access to smells.
Access to other dogs.
Access to the dog park.
Access to your face for investigation and sniffing.
Access to the couch.

Thanks for reading and happy training!

This or That: Exploring Reward and Punishment Training

2009-12-22T20:29:00.001-08:00

"Friendly persuasion is alright, but nastiness gets better results."

I remember seeing a magnet with this message printed on it when I was a child.

I am not sure if I agree.

In dog training, there are two distinctive camps:

"Positive" Trainers (positive is a misnomer if you are using the definition of the dog training / learning theory world): Look for words like reinforcement, rewards, treats, cookies, fun, clickers, games, etc.

"Punishment" Trainers (another misnomer): Look for words like leash and collar training, leadership training, pack leader training, dominance, correction training, coercive training, status-reduction training, classical training, etc.

I am a reward trainer, but I do use punishment. However, I do not punish with aversives. At least not any more. When I punish, I employ negative punishment or reward removal. I am a "crossover" trainer, meaning I used to use pain to train via "correction" or "training" collars. I have since decided that using pain is to train is very seldom desired by the public, and I don't like to harm dogs. Pain (correction training) is also difficult to administer, and it can be very detrimental to some dogs, so I do not teach people how to effectively use positive punishment (with very few exceptions).

A lot of reward trainers use food as the reward. The method or technique used is positive reinforcement. In this case, positive does not mean "good" it means "added" (think positive as "+").
A lot of punishment trainers use pain as the punisher. The technique used is positive punishment (as above, "positive" does not = "good "it means added, think "+").

I am sure that there are trainers out there that use Positive Punishment (P+) and Positive Reinforcement (R+) at the same time, and advise their clients to do the same, but most, as far as I know, use either primarily R+ or primarily P+.

There are a lot of TV trainers out there, too, for the public to feast their eyes on. And there is a heated debate currently about the National Geographic Show, "The Dog Whisperer" and about using "outdated" and punitive techniques all together - click here for more.

Many "correction trainers" and some TV trainers talk a lot about leadership, dominance, status, and pack theory. Using dominance theory to explain dog behavior and to guide dog training is considered old school by many.

In my experience, many people with large, "stubborn," "guardian/protection," or "dominant" breeds think that the only way or the "right" way to get results is to "become the Alpha" and use reprimands and punishment via training collars, usually prong collars. I am not sure that this is true. In my experience, you can train any dog using rewards, and just because you have a Pit Bull Terrier, Great Dane, German Shepherd, Mastiff, or American Bulldog, it does not mean that you cannot use rewards to train.

I am not implying that correction training does not ever work. I am sure it does work for some dogs some of the time. What I find, however, is that people want solutions for their dog's problems ASAP, and they want to train their dog with humanity, respect, and gentleness.

I think the biggest misconception about reward training is that some people think that using food to train spoils the dog. And a spoiled dog is a bad dog, right? A spoiled dog does not mind, will not comply, runs the house, is overweight, and is just plain...SPOILED!

Other misconceptions about reward/food training:

The dog will not comply unless he sees the food.
The dog will get fat.
The food just distracts him.
The dog is not food motivated.
The food is a bribe.

The misconceptions above can easily be remedied with a good training plan. Food training can be done the wrong way, but mostly, when food training goes wrong the problem lies in the application not the technique.

Here are a few links for your perusal on punishment training, dominance theory, and the like:

Now, I know the above links will talk a lot about the "Dog Whisperer," Cesar Millan. A lot of the opinions, articles, and journals linked to above will challenge his methods. I think that whenever someone is in the spotlight, they will come under scrutiny. I believe that if an average pet owner were to use the methods he uses on his show, that they could be in danger - click here for a sample of the show. What I appreciate about Mr. Millan's efforts is that he has brought attention to the fact that many pet dogs are under-exercised. What I do not like about the show is that punishment training is being masked by the veil of pack leadership training, which is misleading at best, and downright dangerous at is worst.

I hope you have found this interesting and I welcome your feedback.

The myth of the Good Dog.

2009-12-21T15:21:00.000-08:00

Lassie? Really? Anecdotally, the role of Lassie was actually performed by different dogs. Hollywood dogs area highly trained. What is your version of the "perfect" dog?

Here is my problem with the myth of the GOOD DOG - it gives people unrealistic expectations for their pet.

I speak with people who say things like:

"My last Lab did not do this! He would fetch, stay by my side on walks, and come when called."

"I see other people walking their dogs, and they always heel, they look perfect."

"My dog would never bite."

"Don't worry, he's friendly!"

"My dog knows better."

"He is just acting out...showing off. He is never like that around me."

Here is my interpretation of why dogs dog what they do, and how "good dogs" are created, not born (though good genes really help):

If you are lucky enough to get a dog from a good breeder (meaning: they are breeding healthy dogs, breeding for sociability, preparing the puppies for life with humans from birth, will allow you to meet both sire and dam, and will support you for the life of the dog), you can start training as soon as you get the pooch home using reward techniques.

If you adopt a dog from a shelter or a reputable rescue organization, you will often have little information about the dog's early life (no information on genetic make up + no information about prenatal or neonatal experiences and environment), but you might be able to foster the dog for awhile to see if it is a good fit.

Once you have your pooch, I believe it is very helpful to remember that your dog is an individual. Your dog is unique, and will probably not behave the same as other dogs of the same breed, your previous dog, or even dogs from its own litter.

If you want to see your dog do something more, you must reward it while decreasing opportunities for the dog to engage in the "bad" behavior. Once your dog is doing what you want more often, you will begin to shift your perception, and you might begin considering that your dog is a good dog after all.

Some people's dogs do tend to stay by their side, but I see the opposite far more often. I see dogs walking in front of people when on-leash and sometimes behind. Remember also, if your dog was not leashed, he could not be pulling, could he? And leash pulling does not equal dominance. If you want your dog to walk closer to you, you might have to train your dog to do so. If you have an athletic breed, you might want to consider a dog backpack.

Dogs use their mouths and all dogs bite (or have the capacity to bite). Good dogs indeed sometimes bite, and bad dogs have wonderful qualities, too. Severe dog bites are rare (click here for more), even though the media might have you believing otherwise, but dogs are often pushed to the threshold. Most, thankfully, are able to hold it together or move away from the stressor.

"Good dogs" are never one thing all the time. Dogs react to their environments. They behave certain ways because of their breeding, desires, and history.

Just because your dog has a history of friendly greetings, saying, "DON'T WORRY, HE'S NICE" is not always true. Maybe the person or dog your dog is about to go greet is a big bad bully and your "good dog" who is "always nice" is about to earn an undeserved trip to the dog house when he reacts defensively. This is why I do not like labels. I am nice too, but not all the time. I am human. Your dog is a dog. Let them be who they are. Train them, respect them. No, they are not all good dogs, and no, a bad dog is not always so.

Interpreting behavior is a tricky and controversial practice. You may look at your "pack" of two and say Dog X is Alpha. When I look, I might see the opposite. Who is right? What is your definition of dominance? Is it important information at all? There are a lot of dominance/hierarchy theories, and I am not going to get into them in this blog. We are talking about labels again, and you know how I feel about that.

One thing I did think about today was the role that ego plays in our lives - the lives of humans. And now we have another concept to dissect. Ego, to me, means the part of us that is separate from the soul - the "I" or our self-conscious faculty. The ego, in humans, can lead to very strange, self-serving behaviors. Which is not the topic of this blog, but I do not think that dogs have egos. Which led me to the thought that if dogs do not have egos, dogs could not be be showing off or acting out just to get attention. Maybe they are behaving to get rewarded. Is there any reinforcement history?

Anyhow, I feel like I have gone on a few tangents and have moved off the topic of the myth of the good dog, but sometimes I just have to write. I do hope you will forgive me. My main point is that before you label a dog "good" or "bad," just take a breath and ask yourself, "what do I want my dog to do more and what do I want my dog to do less." Then, start training and managing!

What does YOUR dog love?

2009-12-21T10:55:00.000-08:00

I hope you had a chance to check out our latest video on FB about fear and fun, which explored the importance of finding what a fearful dog finds fun and rewarding.

Finding out what your dog's definition of "fun" and "favorite" is important in reward training. It is also important to create or be aware of a hierarchy that might exist within your dog's favorite foods, games, places, people, etc.

Once you know your dog's favorite things ("brown paper packages tied up with string..."), you can use them in reward training. Since you control access to so many things in your dog's life, you can exchange good deeds and behaviors from your dog for access to what she wants.

Here is a list of our dogs' favorite things (I am including their list of "wants" so you can see how we train and use what the want to help us train), in no particular order. I hope it inspires you to crate your own list.

Kibble - our dogs will work for kibble, indoors and out.

Almost any food, but novelty works very well.

Crunchy, soft, smelly, or novel treats.

Carrots.

Apples.

Drinking the dregs of my cereal bowl.

Licking grandma's plate when she is finished eating.

Playing chase games with mom and dad.

Fetch.

Playing hide and go get it.

Peanut butter.

Kong paste.

Cheese.

Rice milk.

Fetch.

Running.

Chasing squirrels, cats, and anything else that is small, fast, running away, and otherwise looking like prey.

Pizza crust.

Car rides.

Visiting grandma and grandpa's house.

Walks.

Smells.

Digging holes.

Comfy locations - dog beds, crates, couches, etc.

Belly rubs.

Ear scratches.

Playing with us.

Playing with other people.

Playing with other dogs.

Frisbee.

Going to new places.

Walks in parks.

Jogging.

Clicker training.

Going in the house.

Going out of the house.

Getting out of the crate, out of the car, etc.

Greeting us when we arrive.

Playing with stuffed toys.

Getting picked up for snuggles.

Licking my face.

Humping my leg (yes, this is discouraged, but, yes, she wants to do it).

Well, there is a list.

Do you know what your dog loves?

Do you know what your dog wants?

Can you use this knowledge to help your dog learn? I hope so!

The F's in your dog's life!

2009-12-18T20:38:00.000-08:00

Food. Fun. Fireworks. Focus. Flatulence. Failure. Fade (the prompt). Front. Fetch. Fences. Frustration. Frontline. Fleas. Family. Feet. Fudge (I hope not!). Fish. Fear. Fights.

I don't really know what inspired this post. But, since we are here now, let's talk about a few of these things and see if any of them work together.

FOOD

Yes, dogs love food. For the most part. I have met a few dogs, that, for one reason or another, and oftentimes because of fear, that are not too excited by food.

How do you use food in your dog's life?
Do you feed kibble or raw?
Do you make your own raw, or do you shop for it?
Do you feed once per day? More? Free feed?
Do you use food to train your dog?
Do you feed from puzzle toys (if you don't know what a puzzle toy is, ask me!)?
Is your dog "not food motivated?"
Does your dog ever fight with other dogs over food?
Do you have any questions about food, feeding, etc.?

FUN

Dogs love fun! Some dogs are are anxious, under-socialized, or fearful can be helped if you learn how to have fun with them!

What does your dog do for fun?
Do you play fun games with your dog?
Do you train with activities as a reward?
Do you have fun when you train?
Does your dog only have fun without you?
Sometimes, what appears to be fun dog-dog play can turn into a dog-dog fight if arousal levels get too high.

FIREWORKS

Lots of dogs do not like fireworks. If dogs are have fear responses to the sound of fireworks, you might be able to run desensitization and counter-conditioning program with food and fun to help your dog.
Always keep your dogs safe during the 4th of July. Many dogs run away from home during the 4th, so make sure you know where you can keep your dog to keep her stress as low as possible and decrease the possibility of escape.

FOCUS

The ability of some dogs to focus intently on something can be truly amazing to see. For instance the eye-stalk pattern in the Border Collie:

Does your dog focus on you?

If you are able to have fun with your dog, and you know how to train with food, you will be more able to compete with your environment, which is always vying for your dog's focus.

FLATULENCE

Wow. Dogs can have potent flatulence. And, yes, it is sometimes funny. And, no, you can't always blame the dog for YOUR gas.

When you give your dog unusual foods, your dog might develop a bit of flatulence. A little gas, now and again seems normal. But a severe flatulence might indicate a problem which you should discuss with your veterinarian.

FAILURE

In training, keeping your dog successful, especially in early training is essential for progress. You want to get the dog hooked on the training game, so he learns just how fun it is! Remember, your dog needs to know the WHAT and the WHY of what you are asking of him. It does not help to scream, "Go to your spot" over and over again if your dog does not know what the spot is or why he should comply.

FADE (the prompt)

When you train with food via lure - reward training, you need to make sure you that 1) you get the food out of your fingers ASAP and 2) you fade your prompting (hand signaling) so your dog eventually is responding to your verbal cues (if that is your goal).

FRONT

Your dog is probably used to sitting in front position. Front position is directly in front of you. Your dog facing your face, front paws near your feet. It will behoove you to train your dog to sit at your sides, as well.

FETCH

Fetch is a great game that is great for fun, exercise, and training. I experience so much joy throwing a ball for a dog to fetch. I can't say I know why. Maybe because I am a boy!

FENCES

Fences play a big role in many dogs lives. They are wonderful for the safety of the dog and they give us a place to exercise our dogs if we have a yard. Fences can also be barriers which can cause frustration as dogs watch people, dogs, cars, cats, etc. pass by while they are trapped on the other side. Fences and yards also can give us the a false sense of security - we sometimes think that by allowing a dog to just hang out in the yard all day provides sufficient opportunities for exercise. Dogs that share a fence can also develop fence fighting habits.

FRUSTRATION

Dogs that do not deal with frustration well can be very hard to live with. There are a lot of things which cause frustration, but, simply, frustration results when someone (dog or person) does not get what they want when they want it. Delayed gratification can be embraced by us, but for dogs, that it can can be a hard pill to swallow. Fences can lead to frustration, as can leashes, being restrained, being thwarted, etc. Help your dog deal with frustration by practicing impulse control exercises on a daily basis.

FRONTLINE

An over-the-counter, flea pesticide.

FLEAS

Fleas are a pain in the butt. Sometimes, literally! Many dogs and people are highly allergic. There are many ways to deal with fleas. Many veterinarians recommend topical application of flea killing chemical products like Frontline. Here is some information on the risks of using poisons on pets. There are effective holistic remedies, too. All it takes is a little Google to try some recipes!

FAMILY

Dogs living with us are considered to be part of the family. They are considered to be our best friends. Live with them in harmony, and communicate with them with compassion, understanding, and gentleness.

FEET

Dogs have feet. We call them paws. I don't want to talk about your dog's feet. I want to talk about the problem of your dog playing fetch with your feet, your friends feet, or kids' feet. Chasing and biting feet is not cute. Direct your dog to appropriate outlets, and keep your friends feet safe from teeth (puppy or otherwise).

FUDGE

No. Unless it is faux fudge.

FISH

Fish is a great source of essential fatty acids like Omega 3s. These oils are good for you and Fido! Click here for more!

FEAR

Fear is common in dogs. A bit of fear is normal. Big fears are often called phobias. Fear is easy to condition (strengthen though association) and is important for survival (the inconvenience of a false - positive far outweighs its opposite). Fear is one of the most difficult "problems" for pet guardians to deal with, but don't despair! There are a lot of wonderful resources out there. If you need help, just ask! Remember, find what is fun for your dog, train with food, and help her regain her focus...on you!

FIGHTING

Fighting is also rather common in dogs. There is ritualized fighting, play fighting, and real deal fisticuffs. There are fights that are all noise and are easily broke up, and then there are bone-crushing, muscle tearing brawls that you don't ever want to see. If your dog is a fighter, you are going to need to ask yourself serious questions, like:

When does my dog fight?
Are the fights serious?
Has my dog ever sent another dog to the vet? If so, how bad did it get?
Why is my dog fighting?
How can I keep my dog and other dogs safe?

Dogs do fight because of fear, but there are many other reasons dogs fight, too, including:

Resource disputes.
Play spilling over into fighting.
Miscommunication, bad body language, and dogs not reading other dogs' cut off cues (often caused by under-socialization or impoverished early environment).

Phew...Or, Fhew!

This is not an exhaustive F list, but I hope you had fun reading it!

Exercise: Poop out that Pooch!

2009-12-16T21:21:00.000-08:00

How much exercise does your dog need? Wow. Tough question. Important question.

One of my favorite answers to a complicated question is, "it depends."

Many dogs are under-exercised, under-stimulated, and overweight. More here. Most dogs were bred for a particular kind of job, and most often, dogs as pets are denied the opportunity to perform what they were bred to do. If you have a pure bred dog who is unable to perform his job, you might want to look for an appropriate alternative, or find somewhere where he can perform the job he was bred to do.

Here is the good news: If you realize that your dog needs more exercise, just think of how much quality time you will have together - bonding and having a great time!

Let us consider some of the factors at hand:

How old is the dog?
What is the breed? What was the dog bred to do?
How is the dog's health and conditioning?
How large or small is the dog?
What is the dog's coat like?
Where do you live? What is the climate like?

Another thing to consider is that there are different kinds of exercise that your dog probably needs more of:

Aerobic Exercise, which will raise the dog's heart rate, burn calories, and exhaust the body (in theory!).
Investigatory Exercise, which is achieved when dog's are moving through the world and acquiring and processing information.
Mental Exercise, which is achieved through socialization, problem solving, and training.

Now, let us examine further the above:

Aerobic Exercise can be achieved through:

Fast paced neighborhood and park walks, jogs, and runs (PS - your dog can probably run faster than you can, especially if you have a working breed - maybe you can teach him to use a treadmill).
Trips to the dog park for off-leash play and off-leash walks.
Games of fetch.
Lure coursing - click here for more.
Canine agility games - click here for more.
Flyball - click here for more.
Herding - click here for more.
Skijoring - click here for more.

Investigatory Exercise can be achieved through:

Neighborhood, park walks (visit other neighborhoods to expose your dog to new stimuli), and off-leash park walks.
Toss and find it food searching (scattering kibble in the yard or through the house).
Hide and go find it exercises in the house or in the yard or park.
Scent tracking.

Mental Exercise can be achieved through:

Socialization with people, places, and other animals (which starts at birth - make sure your breeder is playing their part).
Problem solving, which occurs during dog - dog play, training, and interacting with food puzzle toys.
Training - we recommend positive reinforcement training for obedience and tricks, which includes human - dog structured play.

Now, as far as determining how much is needed for your particular dog, you will have to do a bit of breed specific research, consult with your vet for a health assessment, and take your dog's temperament into consideration, as well as your own lifestyle.

Here is what I can share from personal experience:

Dogs that are sufficiently exercised have fewer behavior issues.
More exercise usually lead to less destructive behavior around the house and in the yard.
Most dogs need at least 60 minutes of aerobic exercise per day. More active/working breeds need high-intensity aerobic exercise, as often as possible.
Exercising is fun for you and your dog and is a wonderful way for you to bond and have fun together.

I invite you to let us know how you are exercising with your dog.

I hope you have fun exercising your dog. Remember, your dog needs you guidance, support, and participation is his active life. Now get out there and have fun, work up a sweat, train together, and live fully!

HELP! My Dog Jumps Up!

2009-12-15T09:49:00.000-08:00

One of the most complained about behaviors in pet dogs is jumping up. Specifically, jumping up on people during greetings.

Before we talk about training, I want to address the root cause of the behavior.

I also want you to notice that I am not calling the behavior a problem. I realize it is a "problem," from your point of view, but if you asked your dog if he has a jumping up "problem," he would probably say, "No, I think I jump up quite well, thank you."

So, why does your dog jump up during greetings?

I believe when dogs jump up during greetings, that they are merely trying to get closer to people's faces, since this is how dogs say hello to each other. Now, this is not always the case, but most often, I believe, when dogs are jumping up, their goal is to get closer to our face or to get our attention.

If you watch dog - dog interaction, especially during greetings, you will see that they will greet by sniffing each other's muzzles, rear end, and genital area. If you tried to greet your friend by doing a similar series of actions, your friend would be in for quite a shock. From the dogs point of view, however, sniffing and licking your face, and investigating your private areas, is their way of checking in with you, gathering information, and saying hello.

The biggest misconception I want to quickly address is the idea that jumping up during greetings has something to do with dominance. I have heard theories that dogs jump up during greetings because they are dominant or they are trying to achieve a higher status, and therefore are attempting to dominate you by jumping up. Now, certainly, jumping up can be quite obnoxious and dangerous when done by a large breed, but if the dog is not acting with aggression (defined as the intent to do harm), I believe that looking through the lens of dominance will only blur your vision. The dominance debate is a very contentious topic, and I will cover it in a separate post. In the meantime, check out this STORY.

The problem with using the label "dominant," in my opinion, is that it will often lead to abrasive training techniques. People with "dominant" dogs are often advised to "put the dog in her place" by using force and intimidation.

So, what can you do?

1. Instead of looking to punish the dog for jumping up, TEACH the dog how to greet appropriately.

2. When you are interacting with your dog, make sure you are not inadvertently rewarding jumping.

3. Teach the dog to master a behavior that makes jumping up impossible (hint: it rhymes with "grit").

4. Kneel down when you greet your dog, ask for SIT, then allow a bit of face to face time.

5. Teach your dog to jump up and greet you on a cue (usually more appropriate for smaller dogs), and never allow jumping without the cue.

I hope this helps and I encourage your feedback!

I have just updated this with a little video:

Walking with a RETRACTABLE lead.

2009-12-14T19:12:00.000-08:00

Watch David and Willie walk and train on our FACEBOOK FAN PAGE!

This video was too large to be hosted here. Please visit out FB Fan Page!

LECTURE 1: Training with Kibble

2009-12-08T19:16:00.000-08:00

Listen and watch David as he talks about the importance of training with your dog's kibble.

David teaches Vida EYE CONTACT

2009-12-08T18:25:00.000-08:00

Control the Game, Control the Dog

2009-12-07T17:42:00.001-08:00

David uses games and a toy to keep Vida's attention on him!

Cooper Learns to HEEL...On Both Sides!

2009-12-05T00:02:00.000-08:00

Witness the power of positive reinforcement training!

QUICK AND EASY!

2009-12-04T17:22:00.000-08:00

Control the pace of the walk, and control the dog!

Dog Walking Tips!

2009-12-04T16:55:00.000-08:00

Learn a few quick tips for more successful dog walks!

Training the RECALL around DISTRACTIONS

2009-12-02T15:48:00.000-08:00

Watch David work on the RECALL and AUTO CHECK IN around birds and dogs.

Food Puzzle Toys = Good For Your Dogs!

2009-12-01T20:15:00.002-08:00

Finally! The video uploaded!

Food Puzzle Toys = Good For Your Dogs!

2009-12-01T20:15:00.001-08:00

Watch Vida interact with the Canine Genius while Lily is working on a Bouncy Bone!

You don't have to feed each and every meal to your pooch from a puzzle toy, but using interactive toys is a great way to keep your dog occupied and it makes them work for their calories.

Using stuff-able toys and long duration chews can also help your pooch get used to home alone time.

VIDEO TO FOLLOW! Blogger is Sloooooooow!

NICE Dog-Dog Play with an Object

2009-12-01T18:02:00.000-08:00

Low Arousal = Decreased probability of fighting.

Cute 7 Week Old Pup!

2009-12-01T17:37:00.000-08:00

Violence in the Streets of Lakewood.

2009-11-30T15:43:00.000-08:00

A day after a horrible shooting in Lakewood, WA, the streets of Seattle buzz with activity. Last night the Leschi neighborhood was flooded with SWAT activity - flash bangs and helicopters included. Twitter has been inundated ever since. King 5 link HERE.

The suspect in the shooting is one Maurice Clemmons. Photo HERE.

If you are looking for info on the topic via Twitter, search for #washooting.

Todays updates have included a search for a Mazda which belonged to his wife (the was reportedly sold 2 months ago), but the search for the suspect's wife continues. Look HERE.

I feel a bit helpless, but have confidence in our law enforcement effort. If anything, I will keep posting until this suspect is caught.

HERE is the latest.

Tied Out Dog Blues.

2009-11-29T18:31:00.000-08:00

Tying out your dog while you shop is not a great idea, especially if you have an anti-social pooch.

Here is a video on the topic:

Pulling On Lead

2009-11-28T23:56:00.000-08:00

Lead. Leash. Whatever. Your dog probably pulls on it, at least some of the time, when you walk together.

My cousin asked me tonight, "how do I deal with a dog that pulls on the leash?"

Well, I said, "take off the leash."

I was joking, of course, but I do want you to realize that without a leash there would be no pulling "problem."

There are a lot of ways to deal with leash pulling, but first I want you to ask yourself, "why does my dog pull?"

Here are a few reasons I believe my dogs pull on the leash:

They walk faster than I do, and I use a 4 - 6 foot leash.
The smelled something really interesting and they want to get closer to it.
They saw me toss a food reward on the ground and they want to eat it!

Stay tuned for a post on how to deal with your pulling on leash "problem!"

The Girls in the Fall

2009-11-28T20:35:00.000-08:00

What Motivates You...Your Dog?

2009-11-28T00:32:00.000-08:00

Sometimes I don't want to get up the in morning. I am not a morning person, what can I say. However, I do. I do get up.

Why? Why do I get out of bed?

Well, for one thing, I feel like a bum if I sleep more than 8 hours.

Sometimes, if I oversleep, I feel like my brain has been wrapped in cotton balls.

I have dogs to walk, money to make, and blogs to write, tweets to, uh, tweet, and FB status updates to report.

What about your dog? How do you motivate your dog to do certain things? Most importantly, how do you motivate your dog to...

Sit on Cue.

Come when Called.

Turn Away from Distractions.

Etc.

You can motivate your dog, most efficiently and easily, through reward training.

And we can show you how!

The "Dog Whisperer" Effect

2009-11-27T22:47:00.000-08:00

Arguably, the most influential dog trainer on the planet is living in the good ol' USA and broadcasting on cable TV.

Here is my opinion on how Mr. Millan is helping the average pet dog owner:

Emphasis on exercise.

Emphasis on consistency.

Emphasis on boundaries.

Here are some links to websites with very helpful information on the potential adverse effects of subscribing to the Dog Whisperer's methods:

http://www.livescience.com/animals/091112-dog-training.html

http://www.urbandawgs.com/divided_profession.html

Dominance Theory and Dog Training

2009-11-27T22:42:00.000-08:00

I have been reading a lot about Dominance Theories lately, and receiving a lot of questions on the topic.

I find the conversation and topic unhelpful to pet dog training, but I am fascinated none the less about why the issue is so controversial.

Here are a few links for your perusal:

http://www.4pawsu.com/dominancestatement.pdf

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090521112711.htm

Using Fetch to Train.

2009-11-27T22:01:00.000-08:00

David uses a simple game of fetch to train Vida

Walking and Training: David and Cooper

2009-11-27T18:59:00.000-08:00

Enjoy this great video of David and Cooper training on a walk. Learn how to teach a new behavior on the fly!

What is on the Menu for Dinner? Dog Training!

2009-11-27T18:23:00.000-08:00

Walking and Training

2009-11-27T18:20:00.000-08:00

I started dog walking professionally.

Now, I train dogs professionally.

I highly recommend you combine walking and training and TRAIN your dog while you WALK him or her.

Always bring food rewards (treats) on your walk, because you never know when a training opportunity will arise!

Do your dogs beg? Watch this!

2009-11-27T18:05:00.000-08:00

Training You To Train Your Dog

2009-11-26T18:08:00.001-08:00

What are the most important things for YOUR dog to learn?

Each human is an individual. We all lead different lives and have different desires. We want different things from our dogs, too.

I think, without question, most people want their dogs to be able to do the following things well:

Come when called.
Sit when asked.
Walk nicely on leash.

Other behaviors that a lot of my clients want to train are:

Greeting people and other dogs with manners.
Not barking, lunging, or snarling when other dogs pass by.
Stay in one place when asked.

What is on your list?

Food Works!

2009-05-06T23:55:00.001-07:00

I know no faster way to install new behavior than with the use of food rewards.

Ask me how!

Dog Walking in West Seattle 2009

2009-02-17T22:07:00.002-08:00

We are proud to service almost 40 clients in the West Seattle area.

Our dog walking Team includes:

Angela DiMarco

Jonathan "Jay" Owens

Leslie Dietz

Jessica Boling

and

Maggie Johns

We are so happy to provide for you and your animals.

Dog Walker Site

2009-02-17T22:07:00.001-08:00

www.davidthedogwalker.com

Dog Trainer Site

2009-02-17T22:05:00.001-08:00

www.davidthedogtrainer.com

TV Trainers

2009-02-17T21:52:00.000-08:00

Can you trust what you see on TV when it comes to training your dog?

Who am I to debunk what other trainers are doing on television, you might ask?

There are a lot of theories out there and a ton of books, and a million websites all discussing dogs and training, and relationship, etc.

What is the best?

What we urge you to do is find a method you are comfortable with, which makes sense and is easy to apply.

As Dr. Ian Dunbar says, "Dog training should be easy, effective, and expedient."

In my opinion, it should also be humane.

You do not need pain to train. You just need a brain, a little time, and food your dog likes to eat (or some other THING that the dog loves).

Our Newsletters

2008-09-21T10:51:00.000-07:00

Check out our newsletters!

David the Dog Walker is HIRING

2008-09-21T10:49:00.000-07:00

David the Dog Walker, or sister business, is now hiring dog walkers!

For more info, email: david@davidthedogwalker.com